Bon appétit: Special dinner by chefs from Nagano Prefecture, ‘Nagano Soirée in Paris,’ pairing foods and saké from Nagano
フランス・パリで長野県出身シェフによる長野県産食材×長野県の日本酒のペアリングディナー「長野ソワレ」を開催
As part of an initiative to “introduce Nagano through its cuisine,” the prefecture organized a “Nagano Week” in Paris from December 2023 to March 2024, featuring chefs from Nagano who have established themselves in the French capital. This event, which moved from restaurant to restaurant, offered special menus highlighting Nagano’s local products. This set of events began at the restaurant “TOWA” by Chef Shin Okusa, from Shinanomachi, followed by “narro” by Chef Kazuma Takeda, from Hakuba, then “ETUDE” by Chef Keisuke Yamagishi, from Tōmi, and finally “Le Petit Keller” (now closed) by Chef Kahori Endo, from Karuizawa. It concluded at “Baillotte,” the sister restaurant of “narro.”
Eight months later, on November 18th, 2024, the idea to create another event together took shape with the “Soirée Découverte de la préfecture de Nagano” (Nagano Discovery Evening). This exceptional dinner, prepared by Chefs Shin Ōkusa, Kazuma Takeda, and Keisuke Yamagishi, showcased Nagano’s local ingredients. In early summer, the chefs began gathering information, selecting ingredients themselves, and seeking out local producers eager to participate. Meticulous preparation was required. Once the ingredients were chosen, the chefs met to seriously discuss the menu: “We absolutely must use Nagano beef,” “What drinks should we pair with the dishes?” “Who will handle the main course?” On the day of the event, five Nagano sakes, including one from the Suginomori Shuzō brewery, the only sake producer present, were selected for the pairing.
Eight months later, on November 18th, 2024, the idea to create another event together took shape with the “Soirée Découverte de la préfecture de Nagano” (Nagano Discovery Evening). This exceptional dinner, prepared by Chefs Shin Ōkusa, Kazuma Takeda, and Keisuke Yamagishi, showcased Nagano’s local ingredients. In early summer, the chefs began gathering information, selecting ingredients themselves, and seeking out local producers eager to participate. Meticulous preparation was required. Once the ingredients were chosen, the chefs met to seriously discuss the menu: “We absolutely must use Nagano beef,” “What drinks should we pair with the dishes?” “Who will handle the main course?” On the day of the event, five Nagano sakes, including one from the Suginomori Shuzō brewery, the only sake producer present, were selected for the pairing.
The venue for the event was “Calice,” Chef Takeda’s new restaurant. Following the success of his popular bistros “narro” and “Baillotte,” “Calice” is a wine bar beloved by Parisians. It offers around 100 seats indoors and on the terrace. With its open kitchen style, very much in vogue in Paris, guests could observe the chefs in action, creating a unique atmosphere.
The event attracted around 45 participants, primarily French, including fans of the chefs, media representatives, and chefs certified by the “Association des Disciples d’Escoffier,” a reference in the world of French gastronomy. Some guests even traveled from London or Switzerland after discovering the event on social media. The menu, highlighting Nagano’s products, featured French creations using Nagano beef and around thirty other local ingredients, was accompanied by five Nagano sakes.
The evening began with amuse-bouches: a “magnolia leaf roll with rice and nameko mushrooms” by Chef Yamagishi, “wild boar rillettes flavored with sansho” by Chef Ōkusa, and a “buckwheat flour galette with nozawana and fresh wasabi cream” by Chef Takeda. These were paired with the sparkling sake “Keiryū Mountain Dance” from the Endō Shuzō brewery. Each bite, rich in flavor, reflected the chefs’ passion for these local ingredients.
For the starter, Chef Yamagishi served “Nagano beef cannelloni with amazake and soybean sauce,” while the three chefs collaborated on a dish of “Togakushi soba, kombu, yuzu, shiso, and citrus broth.” This was paired with the sake “Kinmon” from Suginomori Shuzō. The richness of the Nagano beef, combined with the amazake-based sauce, delighted even the Japanese guests from Nagano.
For the fish course, Chef Takeda presented “sea bass, wild mushrooms, Nagano miso sabayon, buckwheat popcorn, and apple purée,” paired with the sake “Kinmon Nishiki” from the Daishinshu brewery. The crispy, fragrant skin of the fish and the inventive use of buckwheat as popcorn impressed the guests.
The meat course, prepared by Chef Ōkusa, was a “grilled Iberian pork, eggplant tart, Comté cheese, apricot jam, and yuzu kosho sauce,” served with the sake “Keiryū Asashibori” from the Endō Shuzō brewery. The pork, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, paired perfectly with the delicate eggplant tart.
To refresh the palate, an “apple cider granité made with Nagano apples,” created in collaboration between pastry chef Akazawa and Chef Takeda, was served. Finally, the dessert, a “Mont Blanc with Nagano chestnuts and yuzu,” paired with the sake “Kuro Matsu Senjō Vintage 1998,” concluded the meal beautifully. The unique combination of yuzu and chestnuts, along with the pairing with aged sake, was praised by the guests.
The evening ended with a heartfelt message from Nagano Prefecture: “We hope you’ll become fans of Nagano and come visit us!” Participants expressed their enthusiasm: “A refined and exceptional culinary discovery,” “A very informative evening that made me want to learn more about Nagano,” “Thank you for this delicious experience that sparked my curiosity about Nagano!” Some even said, “For just 160 euros, this dinner made me feel like I traveled to Nagano while staying in Paris!”
The chefs also shared their thoughts: “Even us, who are from Nagano, we discovered local ingredients we didn’t know about—it was a refreshing surprise,” “Working with other chefs was a rewarding experience, and we truly felt the French interest in Nagano,” “It was a pleasure to promote the Nagano brand,” “After serving our dishes, helping with the service allowed us to hear direct feedback from the guests, which was very gratifying.”
Though all from the same prefecture, each chef comes from a different region with its own culinary culture. Their shared love for their homeland and their collaboration contributed to the success of the event.
The chefs also shared their thoughts: “Even us, who are from Nagano, we discovered local ingredients we didn’t know about—it was a refreshing surprise,” “Working with other chefs was a rewarding experience, and we truly felt the French interest in Nagano,” “It was a pleasure to promote the Nagano brand,” “After serving our dishes, helping with the service allowed us to hear direct feedback from the guests, which was very gratifying.”
Though all from the same prefecture, each chef comes from a different region with its own culinary culture. Their shared love for their homeland and their collaboration contributed to the success of the event.
As the chefs had expressed before the event, they wanted guests to experience Nagano’s unique culinary and fermentation culture through their creations. This soirée highlighted the potential of Nagano’s local products, shaped by the region’s climate and lifestyle, and offered a glimpse into the bright future of the “Nagano brand.”
